1976 Datsun 280Z Coupe 2-Door 2.8L S30 L28 RESTORED! VIPER BLUE!

Sale price: $7495,00 make an offer

Technical specifications

Manufacturer:Datsun
Model:Z-Series
Year:1976
Type:Coupe
Fuel Type:Gasoline
Color:Blue
Mileage:148,000
Transmission:Manual
Interior Color:Black
Engine:2.8L 2753CC l6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated
Trim:Coupe 2-Door
Number of Cylinders:6
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Photos

Current customer rating: current rating for this car (5)
based on 3 votes

Description

** I AM WILLING TO PUT $250 TOWARD SHIPPING COSTS FOR ANY BUYER WHO WISHES TO DO SO **
Up for your consideration is a 1976 Datsun 280Z. I purchased this carwith the intent to resell it to someone who knows and respects thesecars. I have no interest currently in driving a 70s sports car in thewinter. It is fuel injected, so you can and I do drive it in thesetemperatures. Colds starts every time. This car was restored in 2000 andwas titled as an antique until 2009.During this time, it had seenminimal road use (mainly driven to cruises and shows).In 2009, weretitled the car with standard plates, and the car was driven regularlyduring the summer months, while being stored during the winter.Unfortunately, it's to be stored outside the last three years, and rusthas started in a few areas (see pictures).

The car runs and drives very well.The aftermarket (dealer installed)AC blows ice cold, the original radio works, and all the originalmanuals, including the "starting guide" card are present.The car isfitted with aftermarket Western wheels (also dealer installed, as toldto me by the previous owner), however only one original center hub waspresent when the car was purchased (they were plastic and simply pressedin), and we replaced them with American Racing center hubs.

The interior, overall, is in decent condition.There is a split at theseam in both the driver and passenger seats, as well as a crack in thecenter of the dash.The seats and dash are both original, and were notreplaced when the car was restored.All of the carpets were replaced,and are in excellent condition.

The car had an aftermarket stereo in it in the past, andspeaker wiring, amp output cables, as well as some sort of dial control(perhaps an amp level control?) are still present.Being that anaftermarket radio was installed, an antenna switch from an earlier modelZ was also installed to control the antenna.The switch does not work,and appears to have been rebuilt in the past.The antenna stillfunctions fine if the switch is jumpered.Repair the current switch, orre-install a radio-mounted switch, and you're good to go!There isalso a rectangular hole cut in the console (the size of a rockerswitch).

All other lights, switches, and indicators work as they should.All gauges function properly, with the exception of the clock. The tachometer sticks if you accelerate hard, but goes back to normal after a minute or two.

The original Nissan jack, wrench, and wheel chocks are also present.Aspare headlight is also included with the car, as well as a "Le Bra"cover for the front of the car (this is new, and has never beeninstalled)

Some recent major maintenance that has been done to the car:

2009 -- New fuel pump and relays installed

2010 -- All four struts replaced

2012 -- New ignition switch installed by local Nissan dealer

2012 -- Cooling system flushed and heater valve serviced (performed atlocal Nissan dealer) -- This was supposed to remedy a sticking heatervalve, but ended up causing more harm than good (see issues below)

2012 -- New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor installed by a reputable mechanic.

2014 - New Interstate Battery and Accel ignition coil.

Issues with the car:

- The car recently died while driving, and I couldn't get it restarted.Crank, but no start. I then had the car towed to a shop, they jumped itthe next day and it started right up. They had the car for a week, drove it a ton,and it wouldn't die again. The battery was old and kept dying over night(the temperatures have been in the single digits, which liekly killed the old battery)so I had them replace it.When I drove it home the car died twice. Once I got it home I did someresearch, and all the symptoms pointed to a bad ignition coil. Ireplaced the stock unit with an Accel Super Stock coil, and it's drivenlike a dream since. No issues, and I drive back and forth from Dayton toColumbus in it routinely. Cold starts all the time below 10 degrees.

-There is rust beginning at the front of the hood, around the driver'sside rear wheel well, and at the seam on the driver's side of the rearhatch (see pictures)

-The heater valve is stuck on.This issue was supposed to have beenremedied when the valve was serviced in 2012, however instead ofreplacing the valve, they "rebuilt" it, supposedly due to a replacementnot being available.The valve worked fine for a few months, then beganto stick again.Being that the heater only blows out of the floorvents, and the vent/ac only blows from the dash vents, I left the valveas it was. The heater works fine. I drive the car in this terribleweather all the time.

-The recirculation / vent door does not operate with the heatercontrols.This problem began after the above heater valve service wasperformed.The door itself still functions if operated manually fromunder the dash.This may just be due to a disconnected cable.

-The clock does not work.This also happened after the heater valve was serviced.Presumably a disconnected wire.

-The wipers are "sluggish". They have been this way since the car waspurchased.They work fine in the rain, but if the windshield issomewhat dry, they operate extremely slowly.

-As mentioned above, the antenna switch usually does not work, but could possibly be rebuilt.

-Valve cover, oil pan, and water pump gaskets will need replaced. This is incredibly easy and cheap to do if you have any mechanical sense. I planned to replace the water pump too, only because it'sless than a $25 part. It leaks coolant, but I haven't had any overheating.(and yes I drove it for 4 hours from PA to Dayton with no over heating, so it'snot that bad of an issue)



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